A Collection of Daily Wisdom by Dennis Sylvester Hurd since September 2003.

Jay’s brother is working in New York City. He has been away about three years. A prior trip t9 visit him is documented in this blog. Palitha is sending money to his family and having a house built here. The new house adjoins this property and it’s nearly finished. I’ve taken lots of photos and will send a DVD of the images to him when we get back to Canada. His wife and two daughters will move into the two-storey building this fall. Palitha may return at the end of the year.

Today, we visited the wife and girls. We met in Negombo and went to the beach. The daughters are wild about swimming. A municipal beach opened in 2000. It’s a lovely place and I can only imagine how popular it must be in the evenings. Today, we went there at about 11:30 am.

The younger daughter probably would have enjoyed staying there for the rest of the day but we stayed only about an hour and a half. We crossed the road for lunch at a Silva’s Beach Resort. The meal was good but the service not so great. It was also not a very good value. Still, it was pleasant enough sitting with the warm wind off the ocean.



Negombo is probably about 18 kilometres from the house with the international airport in between. It really is quite a mature resort. This is off season at present as European tourists generally head here during their winter. Still, rather than the struggle of getting to the southern beaches, if a seaside holiday is the desire, one couldn’t do better than Negombo. There’s white beach as far as the eye can see, plenty of large hotels, lots of small guest houses, a variety of restaurants, and all the other prerequisites for a tropical beach holiday.

We had the same driver and van which have taken us around so much of Sri Lanka during this trip. After dropping Darmika and the girls off at their apartment in Ja-Ela, we got home at about 4:00 pm. I was happy to wash the sea salt off my entire body.

Labels: Sri Lanka 2006

You might recognize the title from the game of Monopoly. Lest I later sound as if I’m complaining; I’m not. I am enjoying my vacation immensely. In fact, it is with sadness that I realize we’ll be leaving in only a bit more than a week.

Today was fairly restful. Lal and elder sister returned to Nugegoda. They left about 10:00 am.

As soon as the tuk tuk and driver returned, Jay and I went to Minuwangoda to cash a few traveller’s cheques. It is a habit that is diminishing in importance. In our past, it was imperative to rely on Thomas Cook or American Express when travelling overseas. In Sri Lanka, for some reason, the rates on traveller’s cheques are even a bit better than cash. Yet, I must try an ATM to make a withdrawal directly from my account in Canada. All the banks’ automated tellers show they are tied to the standard, global networks. All large businesses accept credit cards now too. If we find these methods work well, then perhaps we’ll have to say goodbye to the time-tested tradition of practicing one’s signature over and over.

There is a new Sampath Bank branch in Minuwangoda. We stopped there. The environment was very nice. Clean, colourful walls and air conditioning welcomed us. Computerization has made banking in Sri Lanka easier in the last few decades. Still, there is a clear, class system to the way employees are organized. Bank staff still shuffle paperwork to a superior in order to get a signature and authorization even for the simplest tasks. This was never surprising to me as even wealthy Middle East banks implemented hierarchical systems that seemed archaic. The rub was several people repeatedly miscounted Jay’s $200 as $150. There were two fifties and a single one hundred but they assumed all were fifties. Jay figured that he’d made an error back at home. Without reading glasses, he is a bit blind! When our tuk tuk pulled up to the driveway at home, we discovered the bank had called and found the error. Jay had to turn around and return for the additional 5,000 Sri Lankan Rupees owed him.

Sometimes on a journey it’s the little things don’t go smoothly that are most remembered. I’d like to suggest, therefore, we should look forward to them in anticipation.

Labels: money, Sri Lanka 2006

The morning started at around the correct time for travelling. The three rooms we rented were a floor down from the main road. Yet to the back of the building, we must have been an apparent 6 floors high looking still further down to a valley. The panorama from the outside corridors was a nice way to wake up. We got ready, had tea, checked out, and first drove into Bandarawala for breakfast. We found a Muslim bakery that was perfect. Whereas most had bread and curry, Jay and I ate short eats.

The weather was perfect. Although sunny in the city, we could still see the mist rolling along the peaks of the higher mountains. I think I’ve now replaced Ratnapura as my favourite Sri Lankan city. Bandarawela was larger than I might have expected by the size of the letters on our map. The city itself sports a very large clean mall-type shopping center. Also, in this country if there’s a Cargill’s Food City and a clothing store called Fashion Bug, then one knows it meets a certain level of sophistication. Bandarawela had both. Additionally, the views are great coming into or leaving the city. I loved the fact it was downright cold at night. This was only the second time, I’ve not awoken with a sweaty face since arriving on the island. The first time was the prior night in Nuwaraeliya.

Then the rest of the day was spent heading down from the mountains towards home.

The road through the mountains offered stunning views although it was under major construction. I would venture we passed 30 or 40 kilometres of road work. Although that may not sound like much to some of you, by Sri Lankan standards, it’s a major project!

I’m not sure if the road work is coming from government funds or under foreign aid. I think I may have seen Korean faces among the supervisors. Regardless, it is an absolute necessity in order to get this country moving. We spent the better part of yesterday passing cultivated areas in the mountains where most of Sri Lanka’s vegetables are grown. The majority of this produce must head to the tables of people in the capital area. It’s imperative that roads are improved not only Wfor the flow of people but for products. In West, we don’t spend lots of time thinking of infrastructure projects. We’ve had literally generations of spending on developments that are new to many countries such as Sri Lanka. I had never heard to the term carpeted road until this trip. What it means is a highway with a proper foundation. The roads that are being carpeted must have formerly been merely trails were patched with successive coats of asphalt and tar. That was every road in Sri Lanka when I visited in the 1980’s. Transport has changed a lot since then. Twenty years ago, private transport wasn’t prevalent, so there were few private busses or tuk tuks. Over the years there’s been an additional explosion of motorcycles and private autos.

The headaches which the West still encounters are more pronounced here. Many roads cannot handle the sheer volume of traffic and improvements will only guarantee the addition of future vehicles. Unfortunately, safety and environmental standards are lax in Sri Lanka. People who live in the North America's "Land of the Free" seldom stop to think how extremely regulated they really are. Whether it’s zoning rules, or federally mandated auto-glass regulations, people in developed countries have regulated themselves a safe and reasonably pleasing environment. This is not the case in places which cannot afford spending on such luxury.

As a final note, I’m pleased to have been able to see the sights I did today. Returning through Ratnapura meant lunch at our guest house. The same steward set the table for our group of eight as did for Jay and I two years ago.

We got home at about 5:30. I couldn’t wait to have a shower!

Labels: Sri Lanka 2006

We were up with the birds. Well, not exactly as there don’t seem to be the same types up here in the hills. Jay and I thought we were late when getting up at 6:30 but nobody was ready at that time. We were eventually ready to hit the road by eight. Unfortunately, the driver was unable to start the vehicle. After unsuccessful pushing for a jump start, he went to a garage and somehow, as if by magic, we sped away at 9:00 am.

This morning we were on the Badulla Road. Yet, it wasn’t long before we stopped at Hakgala Botanical Gardens. A huge bus-full of young monks were almost ready to depart. They’d obviously started on their journey, earlier than we did. Although probably not the most prolific time of the year, there were enough blossoms in the garden to keep everyone happy. The roots of huge trees from California and Japan must have been planted a very long time ago. In addition, lots of small flowers were budding and there was an exceptionally large rose garden. As we walked about, I couldn’t help but think of the numerous old movie songs that must’ve been filmed here.



This reason for our current trip is mostly for the thrill of the scenery. It is surely in abundance! We’d left jungle but now were in areas of difficult yet determined farming. All types of vegetables can be grown in the cold air here. We passed terraced fields of carrots, potatoes, leeks, lettuce, cabbage, beans, and beets. Jay and I both love taking road trips. The major goal is not the destination but in the getting there. Not all people share our love of the highway.

In today’s case the first major, urban center along the path was Badulla. We stopped at a famous temple in the city. It is relatively well-known here because the Buddha, on the way to Kalenyia, stopped here and meditated.

Later in the afternoon, we took a hike to Dunhinda Falls. The path was relatively flat during the first half but we started climbing down during the rest of the hour. The falls were impressive although the water wasn’t at its highest volume at this time of the year. The hike back was a lot harder.

Next, on the way to our eventual place for the night, we decided to take a five kilometre side-trip to Ella Falls. The town of Ella is Sri Lanka’s highest. It is 1041 metres above mean sea level. The falls required a few kilometres of travel on a very dangerous road. I peeked from the van’s window and, on occasion, looked down at nothing but air for thousands of feet.

It was getting dark by the time we found a rest house on the way out of Bandarawella.

Labels: Sri Lanka 2006, temple

It was not nearly as difficult as I had expected for everybody to be in the van at 7:00. We left without breakfast and later stopped along the way. Our destination for today was Nuwaraeliya, but we went back roads so as to avoid the traffic of Kandy. Actually the short-cut took quite a bit of time. It was a winding switchback road. You know the type I mean, I’m sure. Being an old and narrow road it had to have hairpin curves in order to make the ascent at a descent grade. I’m used to these. Even British Columbia’s Crow’s Highway has a few such sections, but most definitely without this jungle flora.



You can keep your tropical beach vacation for I’d rather see the mountains. We passed the filming area for The Bridge Over the River Kwai. After a few hours and a few dozen kilometres of rice paddies, and rubber trees, we started driving past the tea plantations with hundreds of acres of tea bushes. It was growing on the steep inclines right to the road’s edge. It really afforded some amazing views. A bit before Horton, we started seeing the tea ladies plucking leaves to add to the baskets on their backs. We saw places where they turned in their collection. Also, there were several amazing waterfalls we saw from the highway although we expect to see others up close tomorrow.

Upon arriving, we went to Victoria Park here. This altitude is so high that it seems very cool here. Being ever prepared, I have an Eddie Bauer flannel shirt in the travel bag. We ate lunch in the rather nice Milano Restaurant in downtown Nuwaraeliya. Next, we found the Pedro Tea Factory and paid the fifty cent admission. One tour has taking place, so we sat in a beautiful reception area and were served … well … tea! After putting on green smocks, we were accompanied through the factory to see the different drying and sorting stages. There were bags and bags ready for shipment worldwide. I found it interesting that the Middle East, Europe, and Russia all like tea of different grades and processed differently.

After a few different false starts, we ended up checking into the Keena Guest House. It was simple but nice enough. The restaurant later served us a great dinner. Before that we again walked downtown. The kilometre and a half there was easier going than after the 6:30 pm sunset. We walked back in the dark. I am luck I packed my flannel shirt. There’s no sweat here!

Lal and I finished a bottle of arrak before and during dinner much to the annoyance of all others. Bed came early at about 9:45. Will we have an early start tomorrow?

Labels: mountains, Sri Lanka 2006

Today is the half way point of our stay in Sri Lanka. We’ve been here for two weeks with two remaining. I’m sure of an undocumented rift in the space/time continuum which causes time to actually move faster during vacations. I have empirical evidence. This subatomic quark only comes into play for those enjoying time away. I am still waiting for the discovery of its negative quark which kicks in once one is back at work. Its affect is to actually lengthen each hour on the job for a few weeks.

I went for a walk in this neighbourhood this afternoon. Some beach areas and upcountry towns are used to foreign tourists. Minuwangoda is not. I am sure I was the talk of the neighbourhood walking around with my camera. Jay doesn’t just walk around. He maintains that people here only only walk if they have a real errand. I couldn’t convince him that he could pretend there was some important reason to be about.



I’d been down the same road a few years ago and not a lot had changed. I did run into a guy near the edge of his driveway and we started a quick conversation. His name was Roy. His English was really good and I had the feeling he wanted to chat just to keep from getting rusty. We talked about the ethnic trouble and agreed on the hopeful outcome of the present war. I learned how he is the brother-in-law of another neighbour who often drives this family’s tuk tuk to town. I met his wife and six month old girl. He said they are able to often sleep through the night now. I learned that he used to drive an airport taxi here but because of the schedule quit now to have more time with his new family. I know he is 38 years old.

These are things I didn’t really need to know. I have neighbours who have lived on my floor in the apartment building in Vancouver for years. I say hello to them but don’t even know their names. Jay is sometimes annoyed because he says Sri Lankans constantly gossip. I suppose this is probably truer of the village folk. People in small towns everywhere probably know each other’s business. From what I’ve seen here, many do not hesitate to ask questions that I’d consider personal. I’d probably not ask about marital status or age during an initial conversation in Canada. Here those questions are sure to come up. It seems as if it doesn’t bother most people here as I’ve not heard anybody say, “It’s none of your concern.”

Who am I to judge about the sharing of personal information? I write an Internet blog.

Tomorrow at 7:00 am our usual gang is off on a three-day upcountry trip.

Labels: digital camera, Sri Lanka 2006

One of the historical legacies of British imperialism means that the English language pops up all over Sri Lanka. You’ll find English on road signs, at many state institutions, and even mixed in with the everyday language of the urban crowd. Surely, it makes getting around the country easy for foreigners. On a short stay, learning Sinhala or Tamil scripts really wouldn’t be an option.

Just a few years back, the number of speakers of English as a Second Language surpassed that of those to whom it’s their native tongue. This should position countries like India or Sri Lanka at a head start over many other developing countries in global business. If you’re like me, you may have already encountered the voice of a South Asian on the other end of a call centre conversation. Many large North American companies outsource technical assistance support centres to these countries.



Today was Sunday market in Minuwangoda. There were crowds of people shopping at tarp-covered, open-air stalls. As well as lots of vegetables we picked up a variety of newspapers. The English language newspapers in Sri Lanka are the best on weekends. They are fat, cheap, and have lots of interesting articles. The papers also have more general interest and speciality sections than the weekend Vancouver Sun back in Canada. I like looking at everything including the classified advertisements. Occasionally the contents surprise me though. The following is a verbatim copy from the Sunday Observer Magazine:

"A house and a chicken are playing in a meadow. The horse falls in a mud hole and is stinking. He calls to the chicken to go and get the farmer to help pull him out to safety. The chicken runs to the farm but the farmer can’t be found. So he drove the farmer’s Mercedes back to the mud hole and ties some rope around the bumper. He then throws the other end of the rope to his friend, the hourse, and drive the car forward saving him from sinking! A few days later, the chicken and horse were playing in the meadow again and the chicken fell into the mud hole. The chicken yelled to the horse to go and get some help from the farmer. The horse said, “I think I can stand over the hole!” So he stretched over the width of the hole and said, “Grab for my ‘thingy’ and pull yourself up.” And the chicken did and pulled himself to safety.

The moral of the story: If you are hung like a horse, you don’t need a Mercedes to pick up chicks."

Labels: humour, Sri Lanka 2006