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Monday, October 25, 2004
Flying Away from Sri Lanka!
Labels: Q4_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Sunday, October 24, 2004
Parting Thoughts on Dad
This is Jay's father. Although retired, he does provide medicinal treatment for alopecia and over the time we visited we witnessed many satisfied patients. He has some characteristics which may seem annoying but they are mostly born out of the effects of his generation and situation. Here are three reasons why I have come to respect him.
First, he has always been keenly interested in the welfare of the family. This can come across as him being too interested in money and the need to always get a bargain. He worked hard during his life but he was not always able to provide all he would have wanted. This fact only speaks to the shortcomings of the economy under which he has lived. If one wanted to prosper then it required dogged determination.
Next, although he probably ruled his house with a heavy hand, nobody suffered trauma or abuse. Being uncompromising can be a bad trait but can sometimes be attributed to a lack of knowing any other way. Again, this might be the fault of a socialization rather than a personal shortcoming.
Lastly, life has not been easy for his generation. He's lived long enough to see the departure of the British for Ceylon. The country has encountered its share of difficulties and troubles. He has worked within a system which unfortunately has included political instability and corruption in everyday life.
Labels: Q4_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Saturday, October 23, 2004
Tree Cutting and Power Cuts
(Jump to Sunday the 24th.) This afternoon, so guys came to cut down some tallk but 'unproductive' coconut trees. It's better to clear them and allow new ones to grow. One guy shimmies up, cuts the top off, and a group pull the branches in an appropriate direction.During the very first tree . . . a storm blew up. It got very dark and the wind increased. A few random leaves started blowing around. When the rain came, it was steady and hard. For the past week, evening rains kept coming a bit earlier each day.
The power stopped flowing. It's now 8:50 pm and I'm writing by the light of a kerosene lamp. The ice cream the the refrigerator is melting but I can't eat anymore! The poor dog is shivering by the front door.
Labels: Q4_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Friday, October 22, 2004
Winding Down
Lal and elder sister left later this morning to go back to Negegoda. During last night's bottle, Lal did decide that they'll come back on Sunday for our last evening here. The day was uneventful and it seemed very nice to have things get back to normal. Auntie's neice did stop for a visit. She'd had a leg removed at the knee due to diabetic complications. We're beginning to think about the four nights in Singapore now. Jay was checking the tourist board information that we picked up when coming through. That was back at the beginning of September! That sounds so long ago but feels so recent. We even reconfirmed our air tickets today.Labels: Q4_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Thursday, October 21, 2004
Almsgiving
By 11:00 am everything was ready and the monks arrived exactly on time at 11:30 am. The big Monk and his understudy spoke a bit, but mostly they'd come to be served lunch. There seemed to be fairly elaborate etiquette. The order and progression of the food was served by the family members:
- soup
- boiled vegetables
- rice and curries
- choice of dessert
- king coconut water
- coffee
- araka nuts & beetle leaves
There was a time for all of us to eat when the monks had departed. They had come and gone in a van which Jay's dad had arranged for. We cleaned up a bit and the same van came back at 3:00 pm to take us to the mother's gravesite. The family has just had some tile work done for the headstone. They burned incense and lite oil lamps. We stayed only for a brief time. At the cemetery, there was a funeral going on for a 26-year-old railroad worker who'd been hit and killed by a train.
The house is getting all back to word as I am writing this . . .
Labels: Q4_2004, Sri Lanka 2004, temple
Wednesday, October 20, 2004
The Evening Sermon
Lal arrived while preparations were ongoing. As well as food, the living room had to be rearranged. The furniture was temporarily stored in dad's room. A chair and table covered with white linen was prepared for the Monk. Mats were placed on the floor so we'd have a place to sit.
The Monk arrived after dark. He spoke in English for a few minutes as I was there. He's translated message was about 'merit' and Buddhism. It also contained reasons not to be sad for the loss of Jay's mother. The talk lasted on hour. A big dinner for family started after he'd left. A whole bottle of Arak was drunk too. I slid into bed late but the sisters were up til after 2:00 am getting food ready.
Labels: Q4_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Tuesday, October 19, 2004
The Neighbourhood
Tomorrow, in preparation, a monk will come in the evening for a sermon. Then on Thursday's lunch, seven monks will come for a big almsgiving. I don't feel out-of-place here but these days promise to be a new experience. I hadn't seen Jay's mom since my 1991 visit.
On a completely different note: I walked 5.7 kilometers around the neighbourhood here. Without my GPS, I'd have been royally lost. We're only about ten miles from the international airport but the roads and paths to home are pure jungle! Once I was only 570 meters from the house but walked a way which was impossible to traverse. I had to reverse back to another road. I saw, among other things: rice paddies, a swimming hole, a temple, and a school where little kids were anxious to try out their English lessons. The shouted, "What's your name?"
Labels: food, GPS, Q4_2004, Sri Lanka 2004, temple
Monday, October 18, 2004
Receptions
Earlier in the day, tuktuk driver, Lal and a neighbour came to help put up a new television antenna. Jay and his sister picked up one yesterday. The current antenna booster requires wiggling and cajoling very often now. What good is a remote control, if one has to constantly get up to adjust the booster? Jay bought it when he worked in Saudi, so it has given sufficient service.Later in the afternoon, the family planned a huge shopping list. They will need to make a very, special meal on Thursday. Although, it could have taken place at the temple, they've decided to host the one year memorial of Jay's mother's death in the house.
Labels: Q4_2004, Sri Lanka 2004, television, temple
Sunday, October 17, 2004
Taking the Time . . .
This afternoon everyone was cooking. Lots of food is needed as Jay's sister-in-law is going to work in Cyprus. This was a sudden opportunity and was not being considered even back when we all travelled to the elephant sanctuary. She is coming from Nugegoda and this house is directly on the way to the airport. Other in-laws will be coming, so there will be twelve plus the five of us.
The availability of convenience foods has exploded here since my last visit. There are individual packets and innovative packaging. I never realized the actual work involved between the tree and coconut milk for a curry! Now, however, there is instant powder that comes in boxes. Just like the allure of homemade food, doing it by hand takes a long time but is still considered the 'real way'.
As a general rule, if we spent less time saving time, we might enjoy the experiences of living life. Who wants to eat products that are untouched by human hands?
Labels: food, Q4_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Saturday, October 16, 2004
Jungle Ducks & Other Fowl Things
(Jump to Sunday the 17th.) When was the last time you had a complete day where you didn't have to do anything? No, I'm not talking about a day when you didn't accomplish anything. We most always have a to-do list secretly squirreled away in our minds. That list unobtrusively resides there behind all of one's thoughts.Yet today, I had absolutely no obligations. Jay and his dad arranged for a rented van to go visit various relatives. It would be an all day affair, so I declined the offer to come along.
Instead, I enjoyed life while sitting looking at the jungle. At one point, there were at least a dozen birds with which I am not familiar. We don't have them in North America, so I cannot relay their real, English names. I will, however, describe my pet names for a few. There were black and white jungle ducks, brown and white speckled starlings, the funny birds with cowlicks, and my favourite . . . the multi-coloured, upside-down woodpecker.
Perhaps this tropical diversity is driven by the massive amount of energy that the tropics receive from sunshine.
Labels: flora and fauna, Q4_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Friday, October 15, 2004
An Urban Outing
A day downtown did seeme like a lot of work although we opted to travel by luxury a/c bus. The cost was $0.35 for the 75-minute trip. Colombo is crowded but fun. It's also really big, so we stayed close to the Fort area. We bought several Singhala DVD's. We tried hard to ignore the shouting street vendors. Later, we had a quick lunch at a Moslem restaurant, took a few photos, checked email, and brought a few gifts at Laksala.
Laksala is the Sri Lankan Handicraft Store which was founded on a good idea. It was formed as a clearing house for native products. The government-owned company buys items and resells to tourists. Yet, in traditional bureaucratic style, there were twelve workers mostly doing nothing at each cash register.
We got back to Minuwangoda at 4:00 pm. Phew!
Labels: Q4_2004, souvenirs, Sri Lanka 2004
Thursday, October 14, 2004
Up .. Up .. and Away
During the night, my fever disappeared. We walked downtown, had something to eat, and got an air conditioned, express bus to Kandy. What amazing scenery! We ascended the famous winding road that quickly climbs into the mountains. The mere 75 kilometres showed a huge variety of geography which I was not expecting. The terraced rice paddies reminded me of Bali. Drier sections looked like hills in Montana. There were fir trees that reminded me of some I'd seen in Turkey. All these things in a very short distance; although, it did take two and a half hours.
The trip continued on a different bus from Kandy to Nittambuwa Junction. We unwittingly participated in a bus race on the Colombo-Kandy Road. The highway is a bit of a raceway and live obstacle course.
We got home at 2:00 pm and the journeys are over. Well, wait .. we've got to explore Colombo tomorrow.
Labels: mountains, Q4_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Wednesday, October 13, 2004
Veddah Village
After, Jay found and asked a 3-wheel driver how much it'd cost to go to the main temple. We liked the price and it was only 2-kilometers from downtown. This place was the first of three times that Buddha visited Sri Lanka. The initial visit was to prevent a war from occurring.
The driver was very young but knowledgeable, so we ended up hiring him to take us more than 14 kilometres to the Sri Lankan aboriginal village too. The 'original' people are darker and have very wild hair. They speak a dialect of Singhala that requires an interpreter. These people were, until very recently, subsistence hunters. Now that they've agreed not to hunt, they count on tourists and crafts to subsist. I wanted to help and agreed to buy a deer-antler ring for $US 3.50. The problem was that we only had a SR 1000 bill ($US10) and no change. Even the village store did not have that kind of cash on hand! We had to travel quite some distance to a shop in a neighbouring village to get change.
I felt a little ill this afternoon, but still managed to walk to an enormous reservoir from which our hotel was named.
Tomorrow, we'll head back towards Minuwangoda. The first part of the trip should be exciting as it's almost directly up into the mountains. There are supposed to be 18 switchbacks as one gains elevation quickly. It's the road that will bring us to Kandy again.
Labels: Q4_2004, Sri Lanka 2004, temple
Tuesday, October 12, 2004
We're Bus Boys Again
We were quickly able to board a bus to Mahiyangana. The travel was north and a bit east towards the mountains. There is a temple to see here and there's an aboriginal village only 12 kilometres away. We will stay a few nights. A tuk-tuk guy brought us to the Soraboraweva Village Inn. It seems to be run by twelve boys. I'm writing this in a covered area in the front of our door. It's raining out . . . and the staff are working to correct an electrical fault that is preventing us from turning on the room lights.
Labels: Q4_2004, Sri Lanka 2004, temple
Monday, October 11, 2004
Bay Day
Then later, we walked a total of 5 kilometres toward the north end of the bay. Moslem boys, skipping school, were walking near the water. They wanted money, pens, or for us to take video. We told them that tourists don't carry money or pens on the beach and that our video battery was dead. Maybe they went along to school. While there, we collected some seashells for Jay's younger sister. She makes all sorts of crafts.
We went into town by tuk-tuk. Because the seats were different, it was a bit interesting as Jay got to ride 'up front' with the driver. We ate lunch in Pottuvil and brought breakfast buns for tomorrow's breakfast. The main street had very little tar, so it looked to me, like something out of a movie about the old west. It cost SR 50 into town and SR 100 back. The distance is about three kilometres.
Jay walked the beach in the afternoon, and I was going to take a nap, but ended up swatting flies instead. Later we drank tea, watched the waves, and listened to the surf. I have to make sure that I retire at 55 in ten years!
Tomorrow, we'll head back out on a journey. We think the bus will come by at 6:00 am!
Labels: Q4_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Sunday, October 10, 2004
Hang Ten, Dude!
We walked up the beach, then down past the point. I was getting red. As we went we watched some threatening storms developing. It started to rain just minutes from the Aloha Beach gate. We ate lunch and dinner at two different places in the bay. There are 47 different places on the beach, I'm told. The real wind and waves start in a few months during the east-coast monsoons. Surfers love that type of environment, so there're not too many people are around here right now.
I like this bungalow a lot. We have prime real estate in our compound as the other guests are long-term visitors and are staying cheaply. We can afford this luxury by paying a whopping $14 / night for this concrete structure with refrigerator. Too bad the electricity went out at dusk!
Labels: Q4_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Saturday, October 09, 2004
There Was Room at the Inn
We got to Monoragula at about 1:00 pm. We were back at the edge of the moutains in a small city. The place wasn't big but there was a big musical show in town that night. Even crew from one of the national TV channels was covering it. This meant that the first two places we went to check into were were full. We ended up waiting at the Victory Inn. A huge thunder storm blew in and I was ready to find any place to settle down. The guy promised us a room by 5:00 but we were all checked in a few hours before that. Luckily, the accommodation is very nice here. It's all brand new and only costs SR 850. Tomorrow, we plan to get to the east coast but we will be there several months before the surfers.Labels: Q4_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Friday, October 08, 2004
Room With a View
The scenery was fine and the city lovely. Literally, its name means gem city. It's known for blue sapphires, red rubies, cat's eyes, alexandrites, tourmalines, zircons, garnets, moonstones, amethysts, and topaz. We were not hunting for precious stones though.
We walked up to a guest house and expected to pay around SR850, so we walked away when the receptionist asked for SR1500. We took a 3-wheel up to the old Rest House. This was the very spot where we'd eaten lunch on a daytrip back in 1991. It is no longer run by the Ceylon Hotel Corporation, and is still $US15 but the view is superb and this room is super-sized.
Labels: Q4_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Thursday, October 07, 2004
Kermit's Wrong: It's Easy Being Green
We're going to head off on our second and final journey tomorrow. We plan to swing south of the island's central mountains, through Ratnapura and onwards to the ex-hippy, surfing coast near Arugam Bay. I figured that I could take some time today just to walk around here. As mentioned previously, Jay's house is quite close to the international airport. Yet, a kilometre back from the road, one encounters jungle. There are quite a few people who live in the area but the thick tropical vegetation is what's most noticeable.Labels: Q4_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Wednesday, October 06, 2004
Rhythm Method
Labels: Q4_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Tuesday, October 05, 2004
Errands and Email
We took the other half of the list and a Negombo bus. There was a Kodak place there which could print directly from my camera's media although we did have to go upstairs to their networked computer section. They were using Adobe to touch-up wedding photos and other large jobs. At one terminal, a guy had to copy 456 photos to his hard drive, arrange them into smaller section to open, and then let us choose those we wished to print. We wanted family pictures and the zoo photos to give to people here. We selected only 14 but made four copies of each.
Next, we went to an Internet cafe. We got a letter from Ed and Shinji that H3 (Hamster 3) had passed away. It was our favourite hamster but was over two years old and that's their limit. We should have left instructions ... in case of death ... as they took the time and effort to have it cremated!
Riding back occurred just as the schools let out. Even tiny little elementary kids take ordinary public busses, so it seemed to take FOREVER to get here.
Labels: email, errands, Hardware, Q4_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Monday, October 04, 2004
First Movement Ends
We paid our hotel bill and walked out to the Vavanyia main street for a bus at 7:45 am. On the way out the door, we gave our regards to the two, caged, baby miner birds. At quarter to nine the right bus stopped. We got two good seats although my butt is still kind of sore. It was one and a half hours back to Anaradaupura, and then the bus rushed on better road to Puttlam on the coast. Finally, we hit a super fast road to Negambo. Well actually, we went farther, as it was pouring rain and we missed getting off at the airport bus stand. We got off at a junction a bit farther south and caught a regular bus. That was followed by a walk up from the Yatiyana Junction. Finally, we are HOME! Why does my body still feel as though it's moving?
Labels: Q4_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Sunday, October 03, 2004
Missing Madhu
Around half way (45 kilometers) there was a junction to Madhu -- a Catholic church and Christian pilgrimage point. We got off the bus, but again found the Sri Lankan military near the junction. The church area is about 14 K into a jungle area that is now controlled by the LTTE. It was open but there were no 3-wheels waiting, as all pilgrims pre-arrange for long-distance bus transportation. So, we walked back to the main road, and caught the same rickety bus back as we'd taken out there. It maxed out at about 60 KPH due to transmission vibration.
The ate at our Inn. We packed too. I guess we'll do a quick return to Minuwangoda tomorrow ending what will be an 18-day trip.
Labels: Q4_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Saturday, October 02, 2004
Second "Visa" Finished
I suppose there are some advantages to bouncing along on a narrow strip of what passes for tar; namely, it becomes very easy to observe life. People were out washing at their wells. Dogs slept in the road. Unconcerned goats were munching garbage. We had time to read the UNICEF signs warning people not to venture off the road way because of unexploded landmines. We saw into the real huts of the poor people. It's all there ... right in one's face.
A journey in North American inevitably means rolling along on an Interstate highway which was designed as limited access. They are safe but sterile. That system is designed so one should never need to drop below 100 KPH. All the exits look the same whether in desert or forest. For the jaded, I suppose from a Sri Lankan bus window the villages blend into a familiar blur of dwellings too. Yet, at least it's up close and personal.
Our first section of the trip was about an hour. This brought us to the edge of LTT territory. We had to get off that bus, go thorugh a Sri Lanka military checkpoint, then walk a half kilometre to show the Tamil guards our temporary visa from when we headed north. (I thought the Sri Lankan Consulate in Ottawa had given me a 2-month document for ALL of the country!) Next, we boarded an LTT bus and rode for the better part of 2 ½ hours. At the final point we re-entered Sri Lanka and got on a small, private bus. It should have held 35 people but more than double were crammed in.
I was happy to get to Vavuniya where were checked into the Vanni Inn at 1:15. An air-conditioned room? I have a bit of a sore thoat and am sneezing already, but the a/c room at $15 was much nicer than the one in the same building for $5.For entertaininment at sunset, from our window we watched as thousands and thousands of birds came to feast on tiny flying insects that were hatching and then being immediately devoured.
Labels: Q4_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Friday, October 01, 2004
Only South from Here
Today wasn't action-packed but Jaffna isn't a tourist mecca yet. The plan was we'd go to the top of the peninsular by going to Kankesanturai. We knew there'd be a checkpoint and figured that would mean changing busses. So, we went to the bus station at 8:30 am and had to wait for the 9:00 am bus. It actually left at 9:10 am and travelled to Tellippali. That's the most northerly point we could reach as access beyond there is closed for military reasons. I thought it was strange we had to walk nearly a kilometre from the town to the checkpoint! One soldier who was guarding the post was from Minuwangoda. We had a little chat and then turned around. We got on a bus that took a different returning route and saw grapes and bananas growing commercially.
After a take-out lunch in our 2-room hotel room, we napped. Then we took a tuk-tuk to Nathur Kandaswamy Kovil. We had to remove our shirts to go in this big, Hindu temple. Our little 3-wheel guy was the first showed us our Guest House for free, so we paid him SR 100 and tipped him an extra SR 50. We bought some grapes. This afternoon, as Jay's been occasionally doing, he called home to say hello.
Labels: Q4_2004, Sri Lanka 2004, temple
Thursday, September 30, 2004
Ferry to Nagadeepa
A Buddhist temple, Nagadeepa, was the first stop on the Buddha's second visit to Sri Lanka. When we were there, my GPS showed us in the middle of water. (The internal map contains information primarily for North America, and the rest of the world is made of polygons.) It was a very interesting journey that ended as we returned to the hotel at 2:00 pm.
My battery charger is used for the GPS and my camera batteries. Unfortunately, I think I burnt it out with the 240 to 120 adapter. It did used to get quite hot! The electronics shop did not carry a 500Ma transformer here. It looks like I'll have to conserve battery power on the rest of this journey. We'll have been on the road for two weeks come tomorrow …
Labels: digital camera, GPS, Q3_2004, Sri Lanka 2004, temple
Wednesday, September 29, 2004
The Jaffna Peninsula
I think we had to get off for three different checkpoints. Some were the LTT (Liberation Tamil Tigers) and other Sri Lankan forces. I could never tell who wanted to check the bags again. It was a tremendous hassle and for what? Almost twenty years of war . . . and for what? People dead, economic development stalled, human lives interrupted . . . and for what?
Jaffna is not a tourist haven yet. People are very friendly but it looks like Castro's Cuba. All the vehicles except those of the United Nations are pre-war vintage Morris Minors! I supposed just being able to travel here is special as it wasn't possible between the mid-80's and a few years ago. We did manage to get a very convenient room at the Yaara City Villas. We are just one street away from the town center but it's quiet and green here.
Labels: Q3_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Tuesday, September 28, 2004
The Gift of the Tree
Up and away quickly. It was breakfast from this sisters again. The 3-wheel driver who showed us the ancient city yesterday, took us to the old bus station. We took the 8:00 bus to Tantirimalai. It's a temple and the location where Ashoka's daughter stayed when bringing the sacred Bo Tree to Anuradhapura. This is significant as it's part of the tree under which the Buddha attained enlightenment. This area of dark rock had a Hindu temple at the time. It is directly on the route between Mannar and the destination city.
The road we travelled .. well .. wasn't much of one. It was not wide enough for two vehicles. I've got a lot of respect for those old Tata busses as they can operate under such adverse road conditions. We got back to town (50K) a bit after 12 noon. We ate rice at a traditional place with extra fish and bottled water for SR 200 which means $US 1.00 each. Nap time, today!
Labels: Q3_2004, Sri Lanka 2004, temple
Monday, September 27, 2004
Monumental Day
We retired early last night, so we got up early. This room is on the second floor with a large open staircase. The windows look out on an empty lot in the rear. Many wild parrots fly amongst the banana trees.
Rather than eating at the Guest House, we sneaked to the same place we bought dinner snacks. We got breakfast rolls, yoghurt, and juice from the sisters who worked there. After finishing, we walked outside. Right across the road, a 3-wheer driver offered to take us to see the Anuradhapura ruins for SR 700. He was a very honest man and ended up showing us places that many tourists generally do not see. The day was grey, but we didn't use the umbrellas. After 3.5 hours, we gave him SR 1000 and he left us by the bus station. He's a retired military guy who supplements his pension by owning and driving a tuk-tuk.
Our plan was to get a bus to Mihintale, but yesterday's driver that bought us to the Guest House, saw us downtown. He offered to take us out, wait, and return us for SR 650. It was almost exactly 15 kilometers one way. Up another mountain! This is there place where Buddhism was introduced to Sri Lanka. We did open our umbrellas but the rain was warm and felt nice. On the road back, however, it really started to pour. Rain is a blessing in a dry area. Today, we were doubly blessed.
Labels: mountains, Q3_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Sunday, September 26, 2004
Returning to the Triangle
Residing at the French Garden were a batch of small puppies. When the Australian family came, the little kids adopted them and lugged them around. When we sat to eat they'd snuggle against my bare feet under the table. So, it was with sadness, we said, "bye bye" to the beach puppies this morning.
We went to the bus station early but got on the second bus which left at 10:00. With us were lots of people, a live chicken, and eight boxes of fish on ice. Just because there's a line on map doesn't mean that it's really a road. Three hours after the fun started, we got off here in Anuradhapura. The drizzle stopped but resumed after we'd checked into the Milano Guest House. We ate a big lunch downstairs and took a walk to test the umbrellas and buy bakery snacks for dinner.
Labels: Q3_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Saturday, September 25, 2004
Trinco Travels
(Jump to Sunday the 26th.) Last night the window was open to the ocean breezes and I slept soundly. I like beach-front property, I guess. Breakfast here was quick (by their standards) and we took the 3-wheel that was waiting. He brought is to:For an interesting overview of these places, visit Trincomalee in Legend and History. They were interesting. We were gone over two hours and about 25 kilometers.
Upon returning, we walked up our beach to a river. It blocked our further progress, so we turned around. It's very hard to distinguish distance when walking on a long beach, but the GPS comes in handy at these times. All meals end up being at the hotel as it's convenient and reasonably priced. I took another nap. Quite the life, eh?Labels: GPS, Q3_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Friday, September 24, 2004
Life's a Beach
After a jam and toast breakfast, we forked over the $40 for room and food. By 8:45 we were in a government bus on the way to Trincomalee. It was a fast ride on good road (but the seats were not quite big enough for my ample butt). We disembarked at 10:15 and had a 3-wheel driver take us to a close place to stay. We had thought of staying near town but the Chinese Guest House near the bus station was really disgusting.
Four kilometers north of town we found the French Garden Rest House. It's $US 8.00 per night and directly on the beach! I had two beers for lunch and needed a long nap. Tomorrow we'll go downtown and maybe out to a point of land where there's a famous Hindu Temple.
Labels: beer and wine, Q3_2004, Sri Lanka 2004, temple
Thursday, September 23, 2004
Unexpected Routing
It was only at this time that we discovered we'd have to change our tentative plans. Although the road looks fine on the map, no busses run up the coast to Tricomalee. We learned that we would have to backtrack through Polonnawara and Harbarana Junction. Finally a suitable bus arrived for us to jump on. Express defined the bus in name only. I don't think I've ever been in such an enclosed space with so many people. The bus was going to Colombo, but we paid only to Harbarana Junction. There was a government Rest House there, where we ate lunch. We decided that it was worth $US22 to spend the night there. We will be able to take a Trinco bus from here in the morning. There's not much of a town at Harbarana Junction. However, I did manage to buy a set of nail clippers that work well.Labels: Q3_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Wednesday, September 22, 2004
To the East for a Day
This was our last breakfast near the canal. We checked out of the hotel although my Mastercard didn't work. I think the receptionist did something wrong when trying to verify it. We then talked to the local bus station (up and around the corner) and grabbed a local bus to Kaduwalla's larger bus stand. We have decided to stray from the triangle and go to the eastern town of Batticaloa. This area was strictly off the visitor's path during the war years.
It was a long-distance bus, so we ended up sitting around for 45 mintues before it started to move. On the trip, I used my GPS, so I know we traveled 90 kilometers. Yet lest you think it was an hour's journey; I have to inform that it was more than two and a half. The road, you see, hasn't been maintained since the ethnic troubles started in the early 80's.
Upon arrival, a 3-wheel took us to the Lake View Inn. It was a short walk across a bridge which we'll walk for tomorrow's bus. We walked around town and saw that the Dutch Fort although unknown by name to the locals . . . is where many government offices still function. A second walk confirmed that this is definitely a stray puppy city. I shaved off my hair and I sort of miss my tail. As my sandals lost a strap, I thew them away for a pair of new Battas.
Labels: GPS, Q3_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Tuesday, September 21, 2004
Time!
We were up at 7:00 and ate breakfast in the room. We also had a pot of tea at the restaurant near the road. After asking, we found a 3-wheel driver for the day. First, we went directly out to Medrigiriya. It was 32 K and consisted primarily of a ruins and a circular section of pillars which used to have a roof. It was interesting to see but more so, when you consider they were placed in those positions 1200 or 1300 years ago. What workmanship!
What will any of us do that will remain intact and remembered so many years from now?
We went back at noon and had a leisurely lunch at the hotel. At 3:00 pm we did the official ancient Polonnaruwa tour. The site covered acres and acres and I was amazed by a big dagaba as well as the famous carved image of the reclining Buddha. Rain teased us at 5:15 when we finished.
Labels: Q3_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Monday, September 20, 2004
Caught Up in the Triangle
We ate breakfast at 7:30 am and directly walked to the Rock Temple again. After paying this time, the hike up the hill paid off at the entrance to the caves. It was far too special a place not to have religious significance.
After we walked back to the hotel and too a 3-wheel to catch a bus to Polonnarawa. It was only an hour and a half; however, the bus was full and we had to stand more than half the trip.
We waited for a long time for lunch at our new place, the Gagaba Hotel. Yet finally there is a TV in the lounge! We napped. We're right next to the outlet for a huge irrigation-project lake. The area is still in a serious drought and the water level is very low.
Avoiding a 3-wheel, we took local busses to see New Town (a flop) and Kaduwalla city. We bought breakfast rolls from a bakery and ate dinner at a place close to the canal. The owners are a talkative couple and the lady even brought out pictures of her nursing-school daughter.
Labels: Q3_2004, Sri Lanka 2004, temple
Sunday, September 19, 2004
Reaching New Heights
Jay slept under mosquito net; but I didn't want any claustrophobia-inducing covering over my head! We got up and had a nice breakfast in the hotel. We wanted to travel so the hotel called for a tuk-tuk.
A boy in a 3-wheel arrived promptly and we were on the road to Sigiriya by 7:50 am. It was 19 kilometres away. Phew, what a climb! It's a serious hike and not for those who are afraid of heights. It took around 1.5 hours to climb, view, and descend. What an amazing place to put a king's palace! On the way up, it's possible to view the famous Sigiriya Girls in the frescos.
Then, as my cultural triangle ticket book had ones --- we went to Ritigala. It's an ancient Buddhist monastery located partway up the highest mountain in the district. The road there was much further than expected. The way was partly bad tar and, the rest, washboard dirt! We gave RS 300 for a guide who walked with us up a fantastic ancient sidewalk. The stones were so precise that it puts to shame most modern construction. Coming back we ate and the 18-year old 3-wheel driver was surprised that we offered him a free, late lunch too. We made it back to the hotel a total of 105 K later and at around 3:45 pm.
This has been a very memorable day!
Labels: mountains, Q3_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Saturday, September 18, 2004
North to Dambulla
(Jump to Sunday the 19th.) We got up before expected. The lady who was running the place had said we could have breakfast around 8:00 am. As she wasn't there, we walked back to down and ate at the Devon. We had a traditional, string hopper breakfast for the equivalent of $US 1. Then we walked back to the temple to purchase my Cultural Triangle ticket for SR 3315. It will allow me to visit the cultural sites and historical capitals of Sri Lanka without paying admission at each one. We walked to find a 3-wheel driver. He took us up to the enormous Buddah on the mountaintop. He waited for us, took us back to our guesthouse so we could get our bags, and then took us to the intercity bus station area. We left Kandy at 10:00 and got to Dambula (WGS84: N07`52.453 E080`39.063) at a bit before noon.
A 3-wheel driver brought us to the SunRay Inn on the main road. After lunch and beer in their restaurant, we walked up the road and were surprised that we were near the Cave or Rock Temple of Dambulla (WGS84: N07`51.387 E080`38.915). We hiked up the hill without buying a ticket! It was difficult to see that one was needed. I did take some good pictures though. We can go up later. After napping, we bought dinner from a bakery again. It's getting dark and there are some bats flying by. This might be the first time we need to break open the mosquito spray . . .Labels: Q3_2004, Sri Lanka 2004, temple
Friday, September 17, 2004
Kandy: The Start of a Journey
We did manage to get rolling at 8:00. We retraced some of the route to our previous trip to the Pinnewala Elephant Orphanage. We stopped at a temple before heading into Kandy. We parked right at the Temple of the Tooth (WGS84: N07`17.580 E080`38.468). I had to rent a sarong as I only had on shorts and it's impolite to enter with legs showing. This particular temple is highly revered. The tooth relic of Buddha is there. This is also a tourist city for both locals and foreigners. We walked to a downtown restaurant for lunch.
Jay and I will not be returning with the others. We will begin a trip from here and although we have maps we do not know exactly where we'll head next. It's wonderful to be able to travel this way, letting circumstances dictate the path of our journey.
The whole gang helped to get us a room. We drove to the other side of the lake looking for a guest house or hotel for our first night. One from our list was very far up the hillside, and unfortunately, full. When driving back down, a 3-wheel driver was very happy to show us one. We had a choice and went for an ordinary but nice basic room for SR 700.
The family left to return home.
Our arrangement was like a bed and breakfast. We walked downtown to a bakery and brought short eats for dinner in the evening. There was no TV, so we went to bed rather early.
Labels: Q3_2004, Sri Lanka 2004, temple
Thursday, September 16, 2004
Back and Forth
We returned to Minuwangoda this morning. Bobbie, Lal's youngest sister came too. We travelled again by van and happened, by chance, to see another of Lal's sisters and friend and dropped them off in Borella. There were 17 children in his family! Lal is lavish and bought string hoppers for dinner; I think he ordered 400!
The GPS worked well as a means of measurement on the highway. It was exactly 42K from house to house. The fast speed we managed on the major highway was about 50 KPH. I had copied over some old analog tapes of pervious visits to Sri Lanka on my new digital camcorder. It was fun for everyone to watch how different we looked in 1991. Jay's dad likes to tip one back and was waiting for Lal and I to arrive!
We were again promptly in bed at 10:00 so we'll be able to get an early start on our departure to Kandy tomorrow morning.
Labels: camcorder, GPS, Q3_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Wednesday, September 15, 2004
Visit to a Temple
Today, the major event was visiting a monk. This particular monk had helped the family a lot during the sickness of Jay's mother. Actually, the one year memorial of her death will occur next month. Buddhist monks here live by donations. As is customary we brought a new towel, toothbrush, toothpaste, milk powder, and a pen. The "audience" lasted a half hour and were were served tea and food. The van had been late in picking us up (10:50 am rather than the scheduled 10:30 am). So were weren't very hungry. Yet, there was a pet rooster which seems to thoroughly enjoy the cheese sandwich we threw.
In the evening, after an afternoon nap, we checked email at a close Internet Cafe. There are advantages of living in the city!
Labels: email, Q3_2004, Sri Lanka 2004, temple
Tuesday, September 14, 2004
Those Amazing Animals
Considering the end of the last entry, I was NOT totally out of sorts today.
At 9:30 a van came and took us to the zoo. Colombo has an excellent zoo considered on the best in Asia. I took lots of pictures including those of the capybara --- the wild, pony-sized, South American hamster. I mentioned those one on my blog, I think. They also have an elephant show and although the beast have to do some embarrassing tricks, I suppose they're happier than some other beast of burden. It's an amazing zoo really. The tropical setting seems like a perfect environment. The penguins did have to have air conditioning though. We waited to watch a sea lion show too. We go home at 6:00 pm on the dot.
Labels: Q3_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Monday, September 13, 2004
Is It Shop or Drink til You Drop?
It's a bit hotter there as there's no jungle like there is near Jay's house. There was a big shower last night, although I think it make things more humid than cool. Today was shopping day. The sisters, Jay and I travelled to Fashion House, Majestic City Mall, Fashion Bug, and French Corner. Now being fashionable seems to be very important. I got two pairs of shorts and a short-sleeved shirt. Oh, and I got a bottle of Black Knight cologne, a travel-sized bottle of shampoo, and baby powder to cut down on the sheen of my face in this weather.
Lal ordered from Pizza Hut and there was one seafood pizza just for me. I'm treated so royally! After, he and I drank an entire bottle of Arak and by all indications, three of those double-sized beers.
Labels: beer and wine, Q3_2004, Sri Lanka 2004
Sunday, September 12, 2004
Kites on Galle Face
This morning Jay's younger sister, Jay and I travelled to Nugegoda (WGS84: N06`52.411 E079`53.464). That's where his elder sister and brother-in-law live. We left the house at 9:30. At the Minuwangoda bus station we boarded an a/c Colombo bus. It was cool and comfortable. After a long ride, we disembarked at a junction and caught a local bus. We bought two folding umbrellas, and then we took a three-wheeler directly to their house (WGS84: N06`52.374 E079`54.103). We arrived at 12:05 pm but the journey was really only 38K.
We had a big meal which was preceded by a some VSOA for Lal and me. VSOA is Very Special Old Arak and it's distilled alcohol made from coconut toddy.
At 3:15 pm, a van came to take us (and one of Lal's sister and neice) to the Galle Face Road. That is Colombo's waterfront area. It was host to an annual Kite Festival. Hundreds of kites and thousands of people were there. It was beautiful weather and most everybody even managed to wade into the surf. We came back after 7:00 pm, ate hoppers and chipathi, and went to bed before 10:00 pm.

